If you could hire a skilled hunter who was able to kill up to 40 rodents a night, would you do it? What if that hunter had friends and they were all willing to work for free? 

Your neighborhood owls are those hunters.

A barn owl can kill 10-15 rodents per night. If there’s a nesting pair with youngsters, they can kill many more than that. A great horned owl can kill 40 rodents a night. This makes them far more effective than any rodenticide or trap. Many people resort to poison because they think that is the most effective solution to their rat (or mouse or gopher) problem. Unfortunately, poison (any poison) is killing owls and other predators. Even the “safer” rodenticides are harmful to non-target wildlife and pets due to their cumulative effect.

A poisoned rat is going to seek out water, so if you have an outdoor water feature (or pet water dish), you’re likely to find a dead rat nearby. As you’ve discovered, poisoned rodents can become disoriented and will often seek cover in sheltered spots like inside that box of stuff in your garage or even within interior walls. 

So, if you don’t poison the rats, the owls should be able to help with the problem. (Old-fashioned snap traps can also be effective.)

Q. Is there a more effective way to control weeds besides just pulling them out? I am trying to get rid of bindweed, but the vines are hard to pull out.

Any kind of vining weed can be a pain to pull out because you often end up pulling out or damaging neighboring plants in the process. In many cases, the weeds have extensive root systems that make weed-pulling a never-ending task.

Mix up a half-strength solution of weedkiller (Round Up) and fill several floral water picks (plastic tubes designed to hold water so flowers can stay fresh in a floral arrangement). Cut the weed stem and place the ends into the pick. The plastic cap should contain the solution so it won’t spill and kill neighboring plants. Poke the pick into the ground and refill the solution when it gets low. You want to use dilute herbicide so the plant has a chance to take up enough to kill the root system. If you use full-strength weedkiller, you may end up killing the stem before the roots are affected.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

California is home to at least 48 species of ticks, and only 6 of these tend to attach to humans. One of these, the Western blacklegged tick, transmits the organism that causes Lyme disease (Borrelia burgdorferi). These ticks can be found almost exclusively in Northern California. The deer tick, responsible for transmitting Lyme disease in the Eastern U.S., is not a concern in the Western U.S.

Lyme disease was first reported in California in 1989. As of 2016, there have been 2600 reported cases in the state. Only 1-2% of adult Western blacklegged ticks carry Lyme disease, but up to 20% of the immature nymphs carry it. Nevertheless, avoiding contact with ticks is always a good idea, Lyme disease or not.

Ticks like to hang out in heavy forest areas or in grasslands that border forests. January through October is considered prime tick season, so if you are hiking or entering tick territory, you should take some precautions to avoid acquiring these obnoxious hitchhikers. Wear long pants, socks, shoes, and a long-sleeved shirt. Tuck your shirt into your pants and your pants into your socks. Use repellents containing Permethrin or DEET – these will repel mosquitoes as well as ticks.

Afterwards, inspect yourself for any ticks – check any exposed areas, particularly the scalp, neck, and behind the ears. Take a hot shower and wash clothes in hot water. If you find a tick, remove by using a pair of tweezers, grasping the body and pulling the tick straight out, taking care not to leave the mouthparts behind. Do not use a hot match, alcohol, gasoline, or any other dubious (and dangerous) remedies. If you have pets, make sure to keep current with their flea and tick treatments as well.

Ticks are not just creepy and icky. They can transmit Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, tularemia, human babesiosis, and borrelia. Opossums devour hundreds of ticks as a regular part of their diet, so you may want to leave them alone if you see them. 

Q. Is table salt good for weed control? 

Salt is good for killing weeds – and any other plant as well. I cringe every time I see a post recommending any combination of salt, vinegar, and/or Dawn detergent for weed control. Salt tends to remain in the soil for a long time, rendering it uninhabitable for any plant life. If you water the ground where a high concentration of salt was deposited, the runoff will kill anything in its path. (There’s a reason ancient armies would salt the farmland of their enemies.)

Vinegar, especially 30% “cleaning vinegar” is extremely acidic and can cause chemical burns. This, too, will damage the soil and kill many beneficial organisms. Dawn detergent strips away plants’ waxy cuticle that protects leaves from water loss. Save it for greasy dishes.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

Open kettle canning consists of filling (hopefully) clean jars with hot product and placing lids and screw-top rings on the filled jars. After the rings are tightened, the jars are inverted and left to cool. The heat softens the sealing compound on the lids and, as the jars cool, a vacuum is created and forms an apparent seal.

There are several reasons this method is considered unsafe.

Open kettle method omits the important step of processing, which ensures that the contents of the jars are sterile and the jars are properly sealed. Remember – just because a jar is sealed does not mean that its contents are sterile! The jars need to be kept at a sufficiently high temperature for a certain length of time to achieve this.

Inverting the jars can prevent the sealing compound from adhering to the glass. Proper processing involves keeping the jars upright throughout the heating and cooling phases, so the contents don’t interfere with the sealing compound.

Don’t assume that if the jar is sealed to the point that you cannot pry the lid off without a can opener, the contents within are completely germ-free. Even a few bacteria can multiply rapidly and cause spoilage inside a sealed jar. In a low-acid product, botulism contamination is a real (and potentially deadly) risk. Mold often develops on jams and jellies that have been subjected to open kettle canning. If mold is visible, even just a small amount on the top layer of product, the entire jar should be discarded. Fungi produce microscopic threadlike structures called hyphae that can produce toxins, rendering the jar’s contents unsafe to eat.

Any product that is going to be stored in jars at room temperature must be processed in either a boiling water canner, steam canner, or a pressure canner. Only food considered high acid can be processed in a boiling water or steam canner. Always follow a tested and approved recipe when doing any type of canning. Sometimes it can be confusing to determine whether a recipe is safe and approved, especially when searching online. Using AI to search for recipes can be especially perilous since it draws from both safe and unsafe online sources. As you can imagine, the unsafe sources vastly outnumber the safe sources. Safe recipe sources include the Ball or Kerr websites, USDA, any university or cooperative extension website (which should end in .edu), the National Center for Home Food Preservation, or Healthy Canning.

Many influencers, prepper and homesteading sites, and even many published authors are not necessarily safe sources.

Why should you only use tested and approved recipes from reliable sources? The approved recipes have undergone extensive testing under a variety of conditions, allowing a margin of error for safety. The food testing labs have instruments that can measure heat penetration as well as changes in acidity that can occur with ingredient substitutions. I recommend checking the online sources periodically since safety recommendations change as new testing results become available.

Los Angeles County

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

Companion planting has been around for a long time, so most of the early evidence was anecdotal in nature. Eventually, companion planting was scientifically proven to be beneficial in several different ways.

Some companion plants can serve as insect attractants that lure pests away from crop plants. Nasturtiums tend to attract aphids and are good companions for beans, cabbage, broccoli, carrots, cucumbers, winter and summer squash, and radishes.

Garlic’s strong scent can drive pests away from beets, cabbage, lettuce, and potatoes. Basil, oregano, and rosemary can repel insects due to their aromatic compounds. Marigolds discourage the onion maggot fly and cucumber beetles. (Sadly, I have found that they do not repel bunnies.)

Some companions attract beneficials (particularly tiny, nectar-drinking predatory wasps). Dill, alyssum, parsley, buckwheat, and other plants bearing multiple tiny flowers provide easy access to nectar.

The traditional “three sisters” planting of squash, beans, and corn is one of the most well-known examples of companion planting. Corn provides a convenient place for pole beans to climb, and, in turn, beans improve the availability of nitrogen in the soil. Squash plants shade the ground, discouraging weed growth and confusing the squash vine borer.

Interplanting may enable you to extend the growing season, especially for cooler-season crops. Since we grow our indeterminate tomatoes on a trellis, we can plant lettuce under the vines where it is protected from intense sunlight. Although they don’t last as long as lettuce planted in the winter, the plants can grow large enough to harvest before they begin to bolt. Radishes can be tucked in between slower-growing eggplants or peppers because they will be ready to harvest before the bigger plants get too big. Don’t plant radishes when they are subject to hot weather since temperatures over 95 tend to make them especially angry and unbearably hot.

Some crops should never be planted near each other. Sweet corn and popcorn will cross-pollinate, resulting in starchy, inedible sweet corn. Tomatoes should not be planted near corn or brassicas (cabbage family members such as kale, broccoli, cauliflower, or collards). All of these are heavy feeders and will deplete the soil of nutrients to the detriment of everyone. Avoid planting crops from the same family (carrots and dill, for example) because they attract the same pests.

Including flowers in your vegetable garden not only makes the space beautiful but also attracts pollinating insects that will improve productivity. Most of these flowers are easy to save seeds from, which can save some money for next year’s garden. Alyssum is probably the easiest to propagate – when pulling up the spent plants, just shake them and thousands of tiny seeds will fall out and re-sow.

Los Angeles County

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

In most cases, herbicide application should not be considered as a first option for weed control. Hand weeding, hoeing, and mulching are tedious but effective methods of weed control. Sometimes, however, you may have to get out the big guns.

Pre-emergent herbicides prevent weed seeds from germinating. They are relatively safe to use around existing plantings, such as turfgrass. They must be applied before the weed seedlings emerge to be effective. To prevent winter annuals (chickweed, annual bluegrass, purslane, dead nettle, etc) apply in late summer or early fall. To prevent summer annuals and perennial weeds (dandelion, crabgrass, spurge, poa annua, oxalis, etc.) apply in late winter or early spring. Pre-emergents are most effective when applied in cooler, dry weather. If applying over mulch, the depth of mulch and the size of the mulch particles can impact effectiveness because organic matter can bind to the active ingredient of the herbicide. 

Most types of pre-emergent herbicides can only be applied by licensed professionals, who should be familiar with which type of herbicide should be used against which type of weeds. Several products are available for homeowner use, such as Preen, and some types of crabgrass killers.

Pre-emergent herbicides can be effective against difficult-to-control weeds like oxalis and crabgrass. Unfortunately, they must be reapplied to remain effective. I have seen cases where homeowners have discontinued their lawn service after multiple years, only to see many years of accumulated weed seeds germinate all at once.

Q: Is weed cloth effective at controlling weeds? 

Weed cloth may seem like a good idea, but it causes more problems than it solves. Many people simply cut existing weeds down to the ground, then lay weed cloth (or, worse yet, plastic sheeting) over the ground and throw mulch on top. This fix is very short-lived since weed seeds that are on top of the weed cloth can germinate and send roots through the weed cloth into the ground. If you try to pull that weed, you’ll pull up the weed cloth over the mulch, tearing it in the process. Soon you’ll have mulch with unsightly chunks of torn weed cloth poking out of the ground. I have also seen weed cloth applied over existing drip lines or emitters. This makes it impossible to monitor the irrigation system because the lines and emitters are hidden. In this case, if the irrigation is not working, you may not know anything is amiss until the affected plants are in great distress or dead.

Los Angeles County

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

It seems like 2019 was so long ago, but that is when the Asian giant hornets dominated the news (at least for a little while). In case you needed reminding, these were the huge, scary hornets that would attack and destroy honeybee colonies with wanton violence, leaving piles of decapitated bees in their wake. I’m happy to report that, as of December 2024, after no sightings for 3 years, they have been officially declared eradicated from the United States. Thank goodness!

Q. What is the difference between parasitic wasps, paper wasps, mud daubers, and yellow jackets?

Parasitic wasps are extremely tiny – almost invisible to the unaided eye – and are harmless to everyone but their hosts. They are solitary and are attracted to tiny nectar-producing flowers such as alyssum, dill, lantana, and milkweed. The female deposits her eggs onto some hapless caterpillar and goes on her merry way. Eventually, the eggs hatch and the larvae burrow into the caterpillar, eating it from the inside until there’s nothing left and emerging to continue the cycle. Now you know where the plot from the Alien movies came from.

Paper wasps are solitary and non-aggressive as well. They are about an inch long and wispy-looking with long legs and a narrow body that is brown with red or yellow patches. They avoid human contact and tend to build their nests under eaves or other protected spots. These nests are normally under 10 inches long and have fewer than 200 inhabitants. These wasps are not a concern unless they set up shop near a busy location, such as near a door.

Mud daubers are also solitary and build their hard-shelled nests in out-of-the-way locations. Sometimes they will build in the corner of your garage, but the nests are never very big. They are not aggressive at all and will abandon the nest at the end of summer. If you see a mud dauber nest in your garage, you can simply remove it in the fall without fear of retribution.

There are several different species of yellow jackets in California, and all of them are jerks. They tend to build their nests in abandoned rodent burrows or, if the opportunity presents itself, inside walls or ceilings. Each nest can house 15,000 or more insects. If they want to expand their nest and the underground burrow is too small, they simply wet the ground and dig out the space they need. If this occurs in a wall space or ceiling, you may see a damp spot on the drywall, which should be your sign to call an exterminator. Yellow jackets are very aggressive and, once they detect a threat, will relentlessly sting to defend their turf. If you happen to disturb their nest and get stung, retreat immediately before the whole nest comes after you. Don’t try to remove the nest yourself. This is a job for a professional exterminator.

Los Angeles County

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

Thrip damage usually shows up as stunted growth, papery, distorted leaves, stippling, and premature leaf drop. Most of this damage will occur on new growth. Thrips can also affect outdoor plants, but rarely kill mature trees and shrubs.

Thrips are extremely small (less than 1/20 inch long). There are many varieties that favor specific plants. For instance, there are avocado thrips, citrus thrips, and Western flower thrips (just to name a few). Sometimes the thrips themselves don’t cause much damage, but they can spread viruses such as Impatiens necrotic spot virus or tomato spotted wilt virus.  

If you suspect thrips are damaging your indoor plants, you can treat them with Neem oil, insecticidal soaps, and/or pyrethrin-containing spray. 

If thrips are damaging your young vegetable plants or flowers, avoid using any persistent insecticides such as Neem oil. Many beneficial insects (i.e. friends) like to feast or lay their eggs on thrips, so you don’t want to kill them. Rinse the plants to remove any accumulated dust. Plant flowers that will attract predatory insects. Since these nectar-drinking predators are usually tiny, plants with small, compound flowers such as alyssum, native milkweed, marigolds, cosmos, dill, or parsley will attract them. These tiny flowers provide accessible nectar for these visitors.

Q. What could cause my pine tree’s needles to turn yellow?

Pine trees are usually not too fussy about growing conditions, but they really need good drainage. Continuously wet roots will cause the needles to yellow and fall and may eventually kill the tree.

Q. How can I get rid of crabgrass in my lawn?

Crabgrass, I am convinced, will be one of those species that could survive a nuclear war. Once it becomes established, it is very difficult to eradicate. Pulling out each clump by the roots seems to be the only way to keep it at bay. We’ve tried almost every herbicide available, and nothing has worked for us except persistent hand-weeding.

Of course, the best way to avoid this whole problem is to maintain a healthy lawn. Water deeply but less frequently to encourage deeper rooting of turfgrass. Fertilize regularly. Monitor your irrigation to ensure that every inch of turf is getting enough water. Mow weekly on your mower’s highest setting. Most people cut their grass too short, which causes brown spots and encourages weed growth.

Los Angeles County

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

In areas where sunlight exposure is intense, trees can be subject to southwest injury. This will show up on the south- or west-facing side of the trunk. It happens when the cambium expands in response to the sun’s heat and splits the bark open, creating an open wound. This is especially bad in the Midwest, where temperatures can suddenly turn from bitter cold to unseasonably hot.

There are several ways to protect your trees from southwest injury. Painting the exposed trunk with white latex paint diluted 1:1 with water will reflect much of the sun’s heat, though some may find the painted trunks unattractive. Wrapping the trunk can offer some protection, but may mask other problems, such as a shothole borer attack.

Underplanting with hardy shrubs that grow tall enough to shade the vulnerable trunk is my preferred method since it gives me an excuse to plant more flowers and can deter squirrels from climbing into our fruit trees. Geranium, sage, ornamental grasses, rosemary, and verbena are all good candidates.

Q. I planted a bunch of Roma tomatoes because I want to can them and was told that this is the best variety for that. Several years ago, I tried canning tomatoes and ended up with jars that were 2/3 clear liquid and only 1/3 tomatoes floating on top. They tasted okay, but I was wondering if there’s a way to prevent that from happening again.

I gave up canning plain tomatoes for exactly that reason. Recently, I found directions for canning tomatoes that gave me consistently pretty results.

When sliced, tomatoes release an enzyme that causes water to be released, which results in the separation you’ve seen. To prevent this, the tomatoes need to be heated immediately after slicing so the enzyme can be inactivated. (Blanching in boiling water will not do this – the enzyme is only released by slicing the fruit.)

Start by slicing a few tomatoes that have been cored, blanched, and peeled and placing them into a large pot and immediately heat them, taking care not to burn them. As these first tomatoes heat up, mash them a bit to release some of their juices. Continue to core, blanch, peel, and slice, immediately adding each tomato to the pot and stirring so that it heats quickly. This will ensure that the enzyme is inactivated as each fruit is added and quickly heated. Once all of the tomatoes have been added and heated, you can continue with processing according to a tested recipe. For more information, see https://www.healthycanning.com/tomatoes-separating-jars

Los Angeles County

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

Relocating wildlife might seem like a humane solution when an unwanted animal (or animals) takes up residence on your property, but it’s not. When you take an animal to an unfamiliar location, it doesn’t know where food, water, or shelter can be found. Most relocated animals end up dead shortly after being moved. If there is food, water, and shelter available, it’s likely that the new location is in another animal’s territory. The newcomer may be driven away or killed by the current residents. Additionally, diseases can be spread to new populations this way.

Sadly, too many baby animals become orphaned when their parents are trapped and relocated. Every spring, wildlife rescue groups take in orphans, many whose parents were “humanely” relocated. If an entire family is relocated, the parents can abandon or kill their offspring due to stress. Relocated animals will often return, or they will be replaced by a new set of visitors.

What should you do if you have unwanted critters residing in your yard? First, look for what may have attracted them in the first place. Is there readily available food, such as pet dishes or bird feeders? If you have fruit trees, you can remove all fallen fruit, but you may not be able to keep animals completely away. Netting or cages may work for small trees or bushes, but are impractical for trees taller than 8 feet. Motion-activated sprinklers may be your best bet (these can also deter thieving neighbors).

Blocking access to nesting sites is only advisable once you are certain that there are no current residents. You don’t want to seal animals in since this would doom them to starvation and create a worse problem if they die and decompose. Some people have been able to drive away animals by leaving a radio playing or leaving rags soaked with vinegar near the nesting site. Once you are sure that the site has been vacated – some recommend putting down flour to determine if there are tracks – hardware cloth that is ½ inch or ¼ inch should be sufficient to exclude even mice. Smaller gaps should be filled with coarse steel wool since rodents will not chew through it.

Many years ago, an abandoned house in our neighborhood became home to a large family of barn owls. Every night felt like a scene out of Harry Potter as all these owls descended on the neighborhood. As I recall, nobody had a gopher problem that summer. Eventually, a family bought the house and moved in, but left the nest alone because there were fledglings. Once the owls abandoned the nest, they removed it.

If you’re unsure what to do or have questions, contact your local municipal animal control service.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

This phenomenon is called “alternate year bearing” and is very common in fruit trees. In non-bearing years, the tree tends to expend its resources on vegetative growth since fruit production takes an enormous amount of energy. Although this is a natural occurrence, there are some steps you can take to mitigate it.

In bearing years, aggressively thin the fruit to alleviate stress on the tree. An extremely heavy fruit load will not only stress the tree’s resources but will also result in broken branches. Removing up to 90% of fruit also means that the remaining fruit will be larger and better tasting. Be ruthless when thinning and make several passes since you’re bound to miss branches. Start on branch ends that are farther from the trunk and leave only a few near the base of the branches. The remaining fruit should be at least 8 inches apart. Fruit at the branch tips creates more stress and is more likely to break the branch. When removing, twist the fruit while gently lifting it. Pulling downwards will cause breakage (which is what you’re trying to avoid in the first place).

Other factors may influence fruit production or non-production, including environmental conditions. If frost occurs after a bloom, the flowers may drop and cause a reduced fruit set. Low populations of pollinating insects may also adversely affect fruit production. This may be caused by excessive pesticide use or a shortage of food sources (flowers). Plant pollinator-friendly flowers and use insecticides sparingly (or not at all).

When pruning in the winter or early spring, trim branches in a way that allows light to penetrate the interior canopy of the tree. It’s okay to remove dead branches, but don’t cut off those little spikey twigs in a misguided effort to “clean up” the tree because those little spikes are fruiting spurs. (Yes, people have actually done this, then asked why they didn’t get any fruit.)

Q. Some of my indoor plants became infested with fungus gnats and they are driving me crazy! What can I do to get rid of them?

Fungus gnats are not only annoying, but they are also bad for your plants. The flying insects can be taken care of with those little yellow sticky traps. Don’t use these if you have a cat that likes to hang out with your houseplants – this is a lesson I learned from an unfortunate experience.

The fungus gnat larvae are the real, but unseen, villains since they feed off plant roots. Fortunately, they can be eradicated by drenching the soil with B. israelensis. Just purchase some mosquito dunks (granular or tablets) and follow the package directions for fungus gnat treatment. Several treatments are usually required, but this should take care of your gnat problem.

Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; 951-955-0170; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu