In my life, I’ve had eggs in one form or another for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I’ve had them as a between-meal snack. I’ve packed them for camping trips. I’ve nibbled on hard-boilers driving cross-country.

They may be the most versatile food at the supermarket, and a newish chain called EggBred is all about eggs. They’re in just about every dish on the menu, mostly scrambled, but also over-easy and poached.

One thing you won’t find: the humble, home-from-school favorite egg sandwich.

Egg sandwiches date back to the early 1900s in Britain, where the eggs were hard-boiled and sliced. They grew in popularity during World War I, when troops would carry them into battle. With the addition of mayonnaise and pickle relish, egg salad was a dish that came to define the cooking of the 1950s; my several copies of “The Joy of Cooking” are annotated with numerous notes on additional ingredients. Bacon works exceedingly well.

But EggBred is not where you go for a traditional egg salad sandwich, good as it may be. It’s where we go for scrambled eggs and over-easy eggs, served in toasted milk buns, with any number of other ingredients. Eating here made me feel like an 8-year-old in my mother’s kitchen, wolfing down an egg sandwich before running back to my school three blocks away.

EggBred has branches in La Habra, Huntington Beach, Brea, Whittier, Garden Grove, Chino Hills — and right here in the middle of downtown Long Beach, on the Alamitos Avenue side of an Ocean Boulevard office tower, with tables inside and out.

You order at a counter. Then you either settle into a functional chair and table, or stand at the counter, watching the cooks break and scramble and fry eggs in heroic numbers. There may be an egg shortage at supermarkets, but at EggBred, eggs are available in abundance. I do hope it stays that way.

This is one of those high concepts where a restaurant takes something we know well and turns it into something so much better than it’s ever been before. (Funny as it is, the same thing has been done with deviled eggs, which have gone from generic brunch chow, to a steakhouse wonderment with bacon and caviar!) The menu here begins with breakfast sandwiches, which is a lovely way to start the day, especially since EggBred opens at 7 every morning.

And so, we have a sandwich of applewood smoked bacon, properly crispy, along with sharp cheddar, a smoked paprika spread on the milk bun, roasted pepper chimichurri and an egg over medium — a sandwich to get your engine purring in the a.m.

The same ingredients are found in variations where the bacon is replaced by a breakfast sausage made of real meat, or whatever Impossible brand meat is. And in a version with a pork chorizo patty. And in one with no meat at all, but with soft scrambled eggs and caramelized onions. Which beats a pile of IHOP pancakes any day.

EggBred isn’t open for dinner, closing lunch service at 2 p.m. And that’s a pity, for the lunch sandwiches would make a fine late-night meal.

There’s a cheeseburger with an over-easy egg. Which is fairly mundane compared to the joy of the Nashville Hottie — crispy breaded chicken breast with cider vinegar slaw and “county fair” pickles, on a milk bun as ever.

If you want to get fancier, there’s a sandwich with a ribeye steak and arugula. And a burger with a white truffle spread and smoked jalapeño ketchup. Crispy fried onions, too. Lots going on there.

Why the sandwich of Black Forest ham, truffle dressed arugula and Hollandaise is called a Ben Franklin is a mystery to me. And there’s some real edge pushing when it comes to the “Not Sandwich” of breakfast poutine. Poutine is a French-Canadian mess of french fries, cheese curds and gravy. The poutine here is beer-battered potatoes, popcorn chicken, a poached egg, cheddar cheese, chimichurri, chives and sausage gravy. It’s a culinary third cousin of the original.

More Merrill: 5 of the best vegan and vegetarian restaurants in the Long Beach area

You can “Build a Benny” of bacon, sausage, chorizo, ribeye or Impossible meat with two not impossible eggs and Hollandaise on an English muffin. There’s also an assortment of burritos, both standard issue and “loaded” — ribeye steak and chorizo chili, fried chicken and sausage gravy. Combos not found anywhere else.

At the end of the menu, there’s a mixed-berry cheesecake waffle. Which feels as if it meandered in from another restaurant. EggBred isn’t about sweet, it’s about savory. It’s also about maximizing your protein intake … on a toasted milk bun.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.

EggBred

• Rating: 2.5 stars
• Address: 777 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach
• Information: 562-589-2797; www.eggbred.com
• Cuisine: Eggs and more eggs, served in sandwiches, scrambled and over easy, along with sundry “not sandwiches” built around … eggs.
• When: Breakfast and lunch, every day.
• Prices: About $20 per person; reservations helpful for groups
• On the menu: 4 Breakfast Sandwiches ($8.99-$9.89), 6 Lunch Sandwiches ($10.99-$14.29), 10 “Not Sandwiches” ($12.59-$15.29), 6 Burritos ($8.99-$14.79)
• Credit cards: MC, V
• What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)

It’s a family run business that makes everyone who stops by for some chili fries — beef or vegan, as you wish — feel like family. Earle’s isn’t just a hot dog shop, it’s a major destination for meatless cooking. In a world of meat-heavy chili cheese Fritos, this is where you can get yours vegan.

The Earles are brothers Cary and Duane, refugees from Brooklyn, who came to California to pursue aeronautical engineering (in the case of Cary) and music (in the case of Duane, aka Don Jagwarr). But they missed the hot dog carts of New York. And so, they built a cart of their own, and started selling dogs on Vence Beach, in front of local nightclubs, and at the Marlton Avenue Swapmeet — just a hop and skip from their present location. Which led to Earle’s Wieners in 1992, followed by Earle’s Grill, and in 2017 by Earle’s on Crenshaw.

In the process of evolving from a cart to a restaurant, they began to explore the possibilities of being both old school beef, and new school vegan at the same time. It makes for a dining experience unique in the South Bay, for restaurants are either carnivorous or vegan — and rarely both at the same time.

I guess the proper name for the cooking at Earle’s would be flexitarian. With little middle ground, the meatless dishes here for the most part aren’t vegetarian. They’re hardcore vegan. If you want to pass on the beef, you go to the other end of the culinary universe. And a very tasty journey it is, too.

If you want a sense of how tasty, order the Jamaican patty. It’s a creation of many vegetables — cabbage, carrots, broccoli, corn, celery, onions and hot peppers — for that edge of Caribbean cooking. If you need toppings, they got toppings and then some: ketchup, mustard, hot mustard, relish, vegan mayo, vegan chipotle mayo, barbecue sauce, ranch dressing, tartar sauce, New York style fried onions, raw onions, sauerkraut, jalapeños, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and more hot peppers.

Add on the fries and the Fritos, and you’ve got a meal; there’s vegan chili cheese fries and vegan chili cheese Fritos. By comparison, the Beyond Meat burger seems kind of silly. It’s laboratory food. It’s on the menu as a vegan option. Compared with that meatless Jamaican patty, it seems pretty weak sauce to me. Though better than the grain burgers served at Kevin Hart’s Hart House chain, which were just plain dull. Earle’s is never dull.

It was born as a hot dog stand. And though it’s now a proper restaurant where you order at the counter, and then grab a table inside or out, hot dogs still stand proud on the menu.

If you want them meatless, there’s a vegan dog and a vegan link. You want them meaty, the choice runs to beef dogs, turkey dogs, chicken links, halal beef jumbo dogs and spicy beef links. Along with the vegetarian Jamaican patty, there are patties of beef and chicken. There’s a pastrami sandwich and an Alaska salmon burger. And there are bowls, both vegan and beef, available small, medium and large. Small isn’t all that small. Large is definitely large.

The house beverage of choice, served in sizes from small to a full gallon (if you’re really thirsty!), is a sweet fruit concoction called Playas Punch, about which we’re told, “The reason our Playas Punch is so addicting is because the secret ingredient is love … and we put a lot of it in there.”

More Merrill: Breakfast, lunch and dinner are a tasty trio at this San Pedro restaurant

Sweetness is served in abundance at Earle’s. The desert menu is filled with sugary wonders; I love the banana pudding, always have, always will. There are five flavors of cheesecake, including peach cobbler (a dessert within a dessert) and sweet potato.

There’s coffee cake, pecan pie, sweet potato pie, bean pie, vegan chocolate cake, vegan lemon cake and vegan yellow chocolate cake.

If you want to be part of the Earle’s community, show up on Sundays from noon to 5 p.m. They call it Sunday Funday. They set up their cart in front of the restaurant. After spending the morning praising the Lord, you can spend the afternoon praising the dogs. That’s Earle’s for you. The essence of the neighborhood on a bun.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.

Earle’s on Crenshaw

• Rating: 2.5 stars
• Address: 3864 Crenshaw Blvd., Los Angeles
• Information: 323-299-2867; www.earlesrestaurant.com
• Cuisine: Legendary hamburger-and-hot-dog shop, with a large selection of vegan foods
• When: Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday
• Details: Soft drinks; no reservations
• Atmosphere: A shopping mall storefront with a reputation as the place to go in the neighborhood for classic hot dogs, hamburgers and lots of vegan options. A true family business with a heart that reaches deep into the South Bay.
• Prices: About $15 per person
• On the menu: 8 Vegan Options ($2.99-$12.99), 5 Hot Dogs ($4.49-$8.99), 4 Burgers ($8.99-$12.99), 3 Jamaican Patties ($5), 17 Sides ($3.99-$15.49), 10 Desserts ($4.49-$7.99)
• Credit cards: MC, V
• What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)

While the happy throngs crowd the freeway, the smarter move is to let the traffic thin and use that time to indulge in one more fine feed before starting the annual New Year’s Diet. (And good luck with that!) Where to go? How about…

• Also see: Rose Parade 2025 lineup: Your guide to every float, band and equestrian unit, in order

Aro Latin

1019 Mission St., South Pasadena; 626-799-9400, www.arolatin.com

A delicious reminder that there’s more to the cooking south of the border than the dishes of Northern Mexico.

Bistro 45

45 Mentor Ave., Pasadena; 626-795-2478, www.bistro45.com

Robert Simon’s longtime flagship restaurant, a destination for those looking for fine dining, in a casual setting.

Bone Kettle

67 N. Raymond Ave., Old Pasadena; 626-795-5702, www.bonekettle.com

A tasty wonder from Singapore, it offers madcap bowls of broth, beef and so much more.

• Also see: Rose Parade 2025: Your ultimate guide to watching from home

Buca di Beppo

80 W. Green St., Old Pasadena; 626-792-7272, dineatbuca.com/locations/pasadena

If you’ve got a group, and the group is very hungry, this Italian red sauce big portion destination, with dishes made to be shared with many, is a major crowd-pleaser.

Dog Haus Biergarten

93 E. Green St., Old Pasadena; 626-683-0808, www.doghaus.com

Indoor and outdoor, this super-casual beer-and-dog hangout offers just that — exotic wieners, and crafty local beers, with the big game on the big screens.

Gyu-Kaku

70 W. Green St., Old Pasadena; 626-405-4842, www.gyu-kaku.com

You cook your own food over blazing coals at this Japanese yakiniku chain, where the meats and veggies can be very tasty, as long as you don’t reduce them to charcoal.

Gus’s Barbecue

808 Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena; 626-799-3251, www.gussbbq.com

A longtime favorite, offering classic ’que right off the Arroyo Parkway.

Il Fornaio

One Colorado, 24 W. Union St., Old Pasadena; 626-683-9797, www.ilfornaio.com

Longtime Italian food favorite, with branches throughout town, offering freshly made pastas and pizzas, and, as the name suggests, lots of good breads.

Lunasia Dim Sum House

239 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena; 626-793-8822, lunasiadimsum.com

Satellite of one of Alhambra’s best dim sum restaurants, offering dumplings and noodles all day long, saving you a trip south to the many Chinese restaurants along Valley Boulevard.

Marston’s

151 E. Walnut St., Old Pasadena; 626-796-2459, www.marstonsrestaurant.com

The destination of choice for the biggest breakfasts in town. Amazing salads as well.

Mi Piace

25 E. Colorado Blvd., Old Pasadena; 626-795-3131, www.mipiace.com

One of the most long-lived of our many fine Italian restaurants, busy for lunch and dinner, with a menu of creative Cal-Italian cooking.

Parkway Grill

510 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena; 626-795-1001, www.theparkwaygrill.com

The Smith brothers’ most enduring creation, rightly referred to as the Spago of Pasadena.

Pez Coastal Kitchen

61 N. Raymond  Ave., Old Pasadena; 626-210-0775, www.pezpasadena.com

Named not for the kid’s candy called Pez, but for the Spanish word that’s an abbreviation for “Pescado,” this is a fish house — eclectic with a Latino spin — that doesn’t even bother with a name on the monthly menu. All it’s got is a stylized cartoon fish. Followed by a menu of seafood dishes found nowhere else in town.

This is a fish house that exudes modernist creativity. Pez brings us back to the modernist elegance of steelhead trout rillettes, and seared bluefin tuna. It can dizzy the tastebuds in a nonce.

Ramen Tatsunoya

16 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Old Pasadena; 626-432-1768, www.tatsunoyausa.net

The ramen place of choice, for those who feel the need to do some serious slurping.

The Raymond

1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena; 626-441-3136, www.theraymond.com

In a Craftsman cottage that was formerly the groundskeeper’s home for the long-gone Raymond Hotel, old school Pasadena dining in an elegant space, with a wondrous garden.

Saladang/Saladang Garden

383 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena; 626-793-5200, www.saladang-thai.com

In a city of many Thai restaurants, the Saladangs always stand out from the crowd with their true Bangkok cuisine.

Saucy Chick Goat Mafia

203 S. Rosemead Blvd., Pasadena; 626-391-3600, www.saucychickgoatmafia.com

Saucy Chick and Goat Mafia were the groovy pair of pop-ups, with a cult following, and a major presence at the Smorgasburg pop-up of pop-ups in Downtown Los Angeles. On their own, Saucy Chick is a destination for — obviously — long-brined rotisserie chicken infused with either spices from Mexico, or from India.

Goat Mafia is, just as obviously, a specialist in cabrito — which is to say, billy goat. It’s not as much of a presence on the menu (the only goat dish is a rice and bean bowl topped with birria de chivo. But Goat Mafia’s presence is all over the menu, adding a spicy presence to the Mexican fusions of Saucy Chick.

Smash House Burger

46 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena; 626-345-5407, www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087573187242

There are five burgers offered here: The Simple (a single patty on a potato bun with raw onions), The Classic (same as The Simple, but with American cheese), The Smash (in this case with cheddar cheese and bacon), The Hell Yeah (made with a double patty, with bacon, cheese sauce and fries inside the burger), and The Jalapeño Queso Smash (with queso banco, grilled onions, bacon bits and chipotle sauce).

Star Leaf Asian Cuisine

641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena; 626-345-5371; www.starleafusa.com

A 21st-century version of the legendary Trader Vic’s. Which is to say: It’s madcap, over-the-top, extreme from every angle, with a cult following, outlandish cocktails — and some very good food, including a horde of dishes that taste like nothing that’s tingled your senses in the past.

Sushi Roku

One Colorado, 33 Miller Alley, Old Pasadena; 626-683-3000, www.sushiroku.com

Trendy sushi chain, with exotic rolls and exotic cocktails to go with the rolls.

True Food Kitchen

168 W. Colorado Blvd., Old Pasadena; 626-639-6818, www.truefoodkitchen.com

Branch of healthy living guru Dr. Andrew Weil’s good-for-you restaurants, with a fine outdoor patio on Colorado, and a menu of guilt-free dishes that will heal what ails you.

Union

37 E. Union St., Old Pasadena; 626-795-5841, www.unionpasadena.com

Probably the most creative, edgy restaurant in Pasadena — brilliant cooking in an understated setting.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.

But still … when I find a place that really hits my culinary sweet spot — that I can’t wait to get back to — I’ve got to go just a bit over the top.

So forgive me if I say Marlena is the best restaurant I’ve been to in a long, long time. It’s not perfect (I had to ask twice for a lime slice for my mineral water). But I’d have to be a staggering petty jerkwater to let that get in the way of the sheer happiness I felt dining at Marlena. The place is unique. The place is filled with happy servers and cheerful diners. The bar is busy with elbow-benders inhaling Maria Pickfords (rum, pineapple, grenadine, maraschino liqueur) and Cortez the Killers (bourbon sherry, bitters, lemon oil).

Marlena is a remarkable space, both covered and wide open at the same time with evening breezes wafting through what would be walls, if the place had walls. It sits just south of 2nd Street, around the curve from the Naples Rib Company. It’s more in the upscale residential comfort of Naples than on busy 2nd Street.

The neighborhood and the restaurant are both escapes from the world around them. A trip to Marlena feeds both your appetite and your tormented soul. I really didn’t want to leave.

More Merrill: Outdoor dining on Long Beach’s 2nd Street — 4 delicious options

Considering that chef Michael Ryan spent half a decade learning from pasta master Evan Funke (at Rustic Canyon and the wonderful Felix in Venice), Marlena has precious few pastas on the menu — recently just ricotta gnocchi with pesto Genovese, and pappardelle with pork sausage ragu, along with a special of tortellini with prosciutto and black truffles.

By contrast, the place is virtually a neighborhood pizzeria, with pies — impossibly crispy, layered with lotsa stuff — by Waldo Stout who earned his bones at Bestia and Gjusta, two of LA’s best restaurants. This is a restaurant with trendy roots that run deep. Marlena’s ancestry is tasty indeed.

Like Spago in its early, funky, down-to-earth West Hollywood days, Marlena absolutely nails how we’re eating today — and probably how we’ll be eating in the years to come. There are two breads on the menu that are so much more than bread — the happy hybrid called pizza bread — one, with a tomato sauce and aromatic Calabrian oregano; the other, a pizza bianca, with rosemary, black pepper and olive oil. They arrive fast. They vanish from the plate even faster. And they’re just a hint of what’s next.

I could easily have made a meal of the small plates at Marlena, where every dish was awash with promises of flavors that were sui generis — unique to chef Ryan’s eclectic palate. Mixed olives with orange, rosemary and … fennel pollen. I like fennel. But pollen sounds like something that’s precious and rare — and darned hard to harvest. The grilled octopus was actually tender, hard to imagine, served with the counterpoint of crunchy chickpeas.

The grilled heirloom carrots with Spanish goat cheese weren’t so much eaten as inhaled; the carrots were more flavorful than carrots have any right to be. There was hiramasa crudo because there has to be. Crispy fried cauliflower. Pork meatballs with terrific grilled bread. And Saltspring Island mussels in garlic and white wine with crunchy ciabatta bread. (Wonderful bread is a theme at Marlena, a penchant probably picked up at bread-obsessive Gjusta.)

Look into the kitchen, and you’ll see an imposing, shiny and bright Josper Wood Grill, which is where Marlena cooks its whole butterflied branzino, wild swordfish, “pasture-raised” chicken, Pachamama pork chop, Creekstone ribeye, and Back Opal wagyu hanger steak.

Add a Tamai Farms beet salad with spiced labneh onto the bread and the small plates, and my need for a ribeye was finite. And anyway, there was burnt Basque cheesecake. And soft-serve mascarpone and chocolate gelato to consume. The pleasures are many.

The downsides are few to none. Even the wallpaper in the bathroom, decorated with classic Italian dishes, made me happy. After a meal at Marlena, the real world seemed very far away.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.

Marlena

• Rating: 3.5 stars
• Address: 5854 E. Naples Plaza, Long Beach (Naples)
• Information: 562-203-1500; www.marlena-longbeach.com
• Cuisine: Italian
• When: Dinner, every day
• Prices: About $60 per person; reservations essential
• On the menu: 2 Breads ($7), 7 Small Plates ($6-$26), 4 Greens ($14-$18), 2 Pastas ($24-$26), 6 Wood Grilled Dishes ($32-$75), 8 Pizzas ($19-$28), 4 Desserts ($8-$13)
• Credit cards: MC, V
• What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.

Here’s a primer on what to expect, and what’s worth checking out, during your next visit:

Dining

Five restaurants you won’t want to miss range from elaborate multi-course affairs to exquisite, unique tacos. Stay hydrated and be sure to eat a substantial meal before heading out to wine taste.

AK’s Mercado: An awesome array of tacos and other items created by chef/owner Andre Bopp. Don’t miss the suadero (chunks of succulent, marinated brisket drizzled with chipotle aioli and salsa verde), nor the tinga stuffed with braised pork, tomatoes, potatoes and tomacado salsa. 21 E. Main St.; 509-572-0728, www.andraeskitchen.com

Bar Bacetto: Mike and Erin Easton sold their wildly popular Il Corvo in Seattle and moved to the countryside, offering three exquisite handmade pastas nightly along with homemade focaccia and a couple of appetizers. We ordered the rigatoni with ricotta cheese and nettle pesto and busiate, a corkscrew pasta tossed with roasted pork, white wine, tomatoes, rosemary and Calabrian chili flakes. A farm fresh carrot salad with pistachios, pumpkin seeds, olives, peas and fennel seeds also was deeply satisfying. 119 Main St., Waitsburg (25 minutes from Walla Walla); 509-316-0399, www.facebook.com/people/Bar-Bacetto/100086447693465

Brasserie Four: Classic French fare is offered, such as rillettes of pork and duck with juniper berries and sage; white wine braised lamb shank with herbs de Provence and beef Bourguignon. 4 E. Main St.; 509-529-2011, www.brasseriefour.com

Hattaway’s on Alder: The motto is “local inspiration, Southern tradition.” Eclectic items may include barbecue chips with pork shoulder, bamolina barbecue sauce and pickled peppers; and mushroom braised beef cheeks over pasta with burnt shallot croutons and garlic creme fraiche. Save room for bread pudding with bourbon butterscotch sauce. 125 W. Alder St.; 509-525-4433, www.hattawaysonalder.com

Kinglet: For a splurge meal, opt for the seven-course menu designed by Chef Maximillian Petty from Seattle. $135/person (with paired wines with each course, add $85/person). Portions are relatively small, but the depth of flavors are complex and leap off the plate. Service is exquisite, anticipatory and genial. Sample items may include tempura fried oysters with caviar; lamb tartare with banana peppers and egg yolk fudge; and wagyu beef filet with onion petals, pickled ramp, and potato gnocchi. Reservations essential. 55 W. Cherry St.; 509-676-4550, www.kingletww.com

Wine tasting

High quality wines can be found throughout the Walla Walla Valley AVA (the American viticultural area encompassing land both in southeastern Washington and northeastern Oregon), and in a sub AVA within the larger one known as The Rocks of Milton Freewater located just south of the Washington border in Oregon. The Rocks area is strewn with pebbles and cobblestones washed down from the Blue Mountains well over 10,000 years ago resulting in a 100-meter-deep rock layer in a matrix of sand and silt.

Both Christophe Baron of Cayuse Vineyards and Steve Robertson and his daughter, Brooke, of SJR Vineyards and Delmas Winery were excited about these deep rock deposits of volcanic basalt.  It reminded Christophe of the Châteauneuf du Pape soils in France’s Southern Rhône, while Robertson could see the benefits of wines growing down deep through the rocks in search of water and nutrients.

Christophe was the area’s first winemaker to plant in the Rocks district in 1997 (Cayuse vineyard) and Robertson started SJR Vineyards in 2007.  Both of those pioneers separately came up with techniques for protecting the growing parts of the vine which lay dormant in the sub-zero Washington winters by covering them with the rocks for protection.  Brooke refined the technique with mini head training so the entire plant could be buried.

When the vines’ roots have to burrow down as much as 9 feet to get nutrients and water, the resulting wines are rich and concentrated with smoked meat overtones and a pleasing earthiness that is apparent when swirling the wine in the glass. Both red and dark fruits are abundant and the finish lingers on the palate. I’m a big fan of wines made in “The Rocks,” and four of the six wineries I’m recommending are located in this distinctive area.

Cayuse Vineyards: Cayuse is not open to the public, so we were fortunate to do a tour and tasting with Trevor Dorland, president and director general of Cayuse. Finding bottles of Cayuse can be a challenge, but secondary markets such as K & L Wines, The Wine Exchange and The Thief wine store in Walla Walla may offer occasional bottles for sale.

Christophe Baron is the guiding light of the winery and the hands on director of all wines created at Cayuse. Elizabeth Bourcier works alongside him as resident winemaker.

Cayuse wines include God Only Knows grenache, and syrah from Armada Vineyard and syrah and grenache from Cailloux Vineyard. A number of these wines have received 100-point scores, and virtually all have received scores in the mid- to upper-90s from major wine publications.

In addition to the Cayuse brand, Baron produces other wines under the umbrella name Bionic Wines. These include the cult wine Bionic Frog and two other specific brands that bear special mention — the No Girls label, which includes syrah, grenache and tempranillo varietals, and the Horsepower Vineyards label, which includes syrah and grenache varietals from grapes grown using biodynamic farming processes.

A tasting of selections from their family of wines included God Only Knows Grenache, Cayuse Syrahs from Cailloux and Armada vineyards, No Girls from La Paciencia Vineyard and Horsepower Syrah from The Tribe Vineyard. Each and every wine was exquisite: rich, distinctive fruit on the nose, finishing savory with lingering minerality on the palate. Though Cayuse label wines are difficult to find, No Girls and Horsepower Vineyard offerings have somewhat more availability.

No Girls was inspired by the mid-20th century shuttering of Walla Walla Valley’s colorful historic bordellos, or brothels. Upon the closures, the phrase “no girls” was painted on the walls, heralding a cultural shift toward equal rights for women. Baron took this statement and named his wine No Girls to celebrate the rise of independent talented women everywhere, especially in the field of oenology.

With the 2010 vintage, Bourcier took over the production of No Girls wines, whose grapes come from the biodynamically farmed La Paciencia Vineyard in the Rocks (stones) district. The nose of the grenache is redolent with strawberries, tapenade and damp earth with an elegant mouth feel finishing with brisk minerality and hints of dark cherries.

Horsepower Vineyards, another of Baron’s brands, was created in The Rocks in 2008, honoring old world winemaking techniques and his family’s tradition of using draft horses to till the rocky soil between the rows of vines. The horses pull a specialized metal plow between said rows which are spaced only 3 feet apart, precluding the use of tractors. A farmer walks behind the plow holding reins attached to the horse to maintain a straight path.

Horsepower Vineyard contains three syrah and two grenache clones. Horsepower syrah has received outstanding ratings from the wine press, many describing its syrahs as very Côte-Rôtie-like in the style of Northern Rhône wines. The nose is rich and distinctive with aromas of black raspberry and violets, and is very savory, evoking bacon fat, green olives, charcuterie and burning embers on the palate with lingering minerality and a finish that goes on for up to a minute.

It’s no wonder why Horsepower Vineyards wines are in such high demand. In 2021, Horsepower Vineyards was one of only five U.S. wines to receive the Robert Parker Wine Advocate Inaugural Green Emblem, recognizing extraordinary efforts in the realm of sustainable wine production using environmentally friendly practices that go beyond the requirements for organic or biodynamic certification. 509-526-0686, cayusevineyards.com

Force Majeure: Winemaker Todd Alexander has crafted many award winning wines from the Red Mountain AVA and the Walla Walla AVA focusing on syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and grenache. I particularly liked the 2020 Force Majeure Red Mountain Estate Parvati (52% grenache, 30% mourvèdre, 18% syrah), the 2020 Force Majeure Red Mountain Epinette (52% merlot, 26% cabernet franc, 19% cabernet sauvignon, 3% petit verdot) and the 2020 Force Majeure SJR Vineyard Syrah from The Rocks. Tasting fee: $50/person. Reservations essential. 52274 Pleasant View Road, Milton Freewater, Oregon (no outside signage); 541-833-3051, forcemajeurevineyards.com

Gramercy Cellars: Greg Harrington and Brandon Moss continue to make some of the best syrahs and cabernets in the Walla Walla Valley at very reasonable prices. I particularly enjoyed the 2020 “Third Man” Grenache (77% grenache, 21% syrah, 2% mourvèdre). The 2018 Syrah “Lagniappe” Red Willow Vineyard is rich with blackberry and ripe cherry aromas and flavors.  Also look for the “John Lewis” Reserve Syrah, another elegant winner. Appointments recommended; closed Sunday and Monday. 635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla; 509-876-2427, gramercycellars.com

Long Shadows: A distinguished winemaker in his own right, Gilles Nicault, also produces wines together with nine famous consulting winemakers including Michel Rolland (Pedestal Merlot) and Randy Dunn (Feather Cabernet Sauvignon). Tastings $20-$30/person, $50 with a tour. Reservations suggested. 1604 French town Road, Walla Walla; 509-526-0905, longshadows.com

Reynvaan Family Vineyards: We had the opportunity to spend a couple hours talking with winemaker Matt Reynvaan and sampling his exquisite wines.  We tasted the Foothills in the Sun Reserve Syrah, grown at the base of the Blue Mountains, that was redolent with the flavors of black berries, beets, grilled meat and smokiness — true old world quality. Also beautifully rendered was the 2017 “In the Rocks” The Contender, mainly syrah with a touch of marsanne.  These are deeply delicious savory wines with distinctive minerality and staying power. While not open to the public, their wines are available at Total Wine and intermittently at The Thief wine store in Walla Walla. 6309 Cottonwood Road, Walla Walla; 509-525-3462, www.reynvaanfamilyvineyards.com

Rotie Cellars: This Rocks district winery dazzled us with virtually all their tasting offerings.  Winemaker Sean Boyd produces wines that are very reminiscent of France’s Rhône Valley.  Both the Northern Blend (95% syrah, 5% viognier) and the Southern Blend (65% grenache, 15% mourvèdre, 10% syrah, 10% cinsault) were spectacular. The 2020 “Big G” (100% estate grenache) — evoking raspberry notes and smoked meat qualities — and the 2020 Love Rocks 470 (100% estate syrah) offers beautiful red fruit, richness and the classic “Rocks” funkiness. Enjoy the gorgeous views of the surrounding vineyards. Reservations recommended. 84328 Trumbull Lane, Milton Freewater, Oregon; 509-301-9074, www.rotiecellars.com

Where to stay

We fell in love with the Fat Duck Inn, a 1928 craftsman house that has been turned into a magnificent bed and breakfast by Kim and Tim Gratzer. These consummate hosts are knowledgeable, funny and provide full made-to-order breakfasts with 10 different selections from which to choose. Tim is quite the chef and you can also book a four-course dinner (appetizer, soup or salad, choice among four mains, and dessert) for $65/person.

Both Kim and Tim are well connected to the wine industry and can arrange tours and tastings for their guests. At breakfast, don’t miss the pulled pork omelet, the brisket scramble and the lemon ricotta pancakes with blueberry sauce. Freshly baked cookies are available each afternoon.

Best of all, after spending the night at the Fat Duck Inn, you’ll feel like you’ve just reconnected with old friends — scintillating conversations and a joie de vivre that reflects their entire operation. Centrally located, it’s an easy walk to Pioneer Park and its waterfowl aviary, lake and picturesque walking paths. 527 Catherine St., Walla Walla; 509-526-3825, fatduckinn.com

10 things to do

1. Walla Walla Farmers Market; Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

2. Pioneer Park aviary, lake and walking paths

3. Hot air ballooning both sunset and dawn by Seattle Ballooning (Walla Walla location)

4. Visit Blue Mountain Cider Producers

5. Sample Belgian-style ales at Dragon’s Gate Brewery

6. Visit Bennington Lake for hiking and paddle boating

7. Blend your own wine at Northstar Winery

8. Take the walking path along the Mill Creek dam area

9. Visit the Fort Walla Walla Museum

10. Visit the Blue Mountain Lavender Farm (early June to mid-July)

Getting to Walla Walla

Airlines

• Walla Walla Regional Airport (ALW) offers service to and from Seattle via Alaska Airlines.
• Tri-Cities Airport (PSC) in Pasco, a 45-minute drive to and from Walla Walla, offers service via Alaska, Delta, United and other airlines.
• Spokane International Airport (GEG) is a 3-hour drive to and from Walla Walla.

Note: Alaska Airlines allows each ticketed passenger to bring a case of wine home, and it will fly for free.

Best times to visit: Summers are hot, sometimes approaching 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and winters can easily drop to below freezing. Spring (April and May) and fall (September and October) offer the best weather conditions.

2023 calendar

• July 11-15: Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine — Merlot
• October to December: Wander Walla Walla Valley Wine (winemaker self-guided itineraries on where to eat, drink shop and play)
• Nov. 3-5: Fall Release Weekend
• Dec. 1-3: Holiday Barrel Weekend. Barrel tastings of future releases along with food, art and music

Wait! There’s more

Other recommended wineries open to the public:

• Dama Wines
• Figgins Winery
• House of Smith Wines
• Sleight of Hand
• Tranche Estate
• Valdemar Estates Winery

Welcome to

marbled heaven,

smoky bliss,

fleshy enlightenment,

meat nirvana. 

On the eastern edge of Hacienda Heights, across from the aged mall where Marty McFly reached 88 mph in a DeLorean, Yakiya is the unincorporated community’s hidden steakhouse treasure.

Tucked into a shopping center near a med spa, a Daiso variety store and a Panda Express since late in 2016, Yakiya gained a little notice during the heart of the pandemic from our former restaurant critic, Brad A. Johnson, who raved about its decadent bento boxes to go, but this was different.

This was Yakiya’s Japanese barbecue omakase service, a prix fixe marathon of meat, much of which was cooked for the four of us at our table by our waiter. It delivered more small courses than anyone cared to count once our waiter/cook delivered rounds of Suntory Whisky and sake because the bar was overwhelmed by a large party.

We easily hit 20 flavors from the yuzu juice palate cleanser to start and the sesame ice cream to finish, and several courses inspired debate about what was the best taste of the night.

The two tartare preparations took an early lead. The A5 tartare was our first hint that we were in for an adventure; my wife loved that one. But it quickly was topped for me by the rib-eye tartare with a quail egg that we mixed in and scooped onto a beef tendon puff.

When we reached the black Angus tongue, my wife missed the description and said how much she enjoyed it … until I pointed out it was the dish she’d insisted she’d skip. (She once had a similar encounter with Oaxacan fried ants at Michelin-starred Taco Maria.) But with the encouragement of the two women at the table next to ours — “Eat the tongue. Come on, it’s so good,” one pleaded – she soldiered through and clearly liked it more than she’d admit.

Jaws dropped when a tray with four cuts of steak landed on our table and the marbling both glistened and teased as we waited for it to hit the grill. All four impressed, but the standout was the thin slice of rib-eye cap that packed a robust flavor with what appeared to be only salt and pepper seasoning.

In many courses, Yakiya takes something familiar and elevates it. That alone made the visit worth it, but we correctly sensed the meal still was building to a culinary crescendo.

The high notes opened with my favorite, the bone marrow rice with prime filet mignon, something I’ve never seen offered and now will seek elsewhere in vain (or, at best, will find with lesser results). As the filet cooked, the marrow was ladled onto and mixed into the rice, where some pieces formed crispy chips; I was served last in our group and my patience was rewarded with more of the crunch than the others.

My friend, whose birthday we were celebrating, pushed away the end of his rice and looked ready to tap out for the night, but then we were presented with thin, long cuts of A5 wagyu that would give The David marble envy. Our waiter/cook took one at a time and spread it on the grill for a flirtation with heat. He then rolled it as it kissed the grill a little more before he nestled it in a bowl with an egg mixture.

Maybe there was a touch of sea salt and the egg added a little sweetness, but the wagyu needed nothing. The precision cuts were so loaded with fatty goodness that they could have melted, though I wasn’t patient enough to test that and devoured my piece in three bites.

A few vegetarian-friendly courses somehow sneaked onto our table, and their exquisite presentation almost served as an acknowledgment that they weren’t what drew us in but they still could look (and taste) great.

All the other touches, including impeccable service and the unnecessary apologies (and drinks) because a busy night led to a leisurely pace, contributed to easily the best of the thousands of meals I’ve had in Hacienda Heights. OK, I grew up there, and we had nothing close to Yakiya in my time — though I’d still take my grandma’s refried beans over it in a heartbeat and World’s Best Pizza has more than lived up to its audacious name for decades.

The closest I’ve come to Yakiya in a Southern California dining experience is Trust Kitchen (nee Playground 2.0) in Santa Ana and its Ultimate Steak Night. The cuts delivered are similar in quality and delectability, but the restaurants are wildly different in approach.

A night in Trust Kitchen is communal, and banter flows across the 18-seat counter. Yakiya is designed to be quieter — the large, boisterous group dining when we did notwithstanding — and more intimate with individual tables. Trust’s all-inclusive $225 price is eye-popping initially, but it’s refreshing to know the generous wine pairings, taxes and gratuities are already part of the deal. Yakiya’s $128 prix fixe charge seems like a relative steal, but ultimately that’s just the start if cocktails are involved and once a tip is added.

One of our biggest surprises of the night was the revelation that Yakiya is part of the Panda empire — as in Panda Express, Panda Inn, Hibachi-San, Raising Cane’s and Pieology — though certainly at an elite level. And our waiter/cook said a second Yakiya location – this one in Pasadena – is in the works.

The biggest shock, however, is Hacienda Heights actually is more than the hometown of Stacy Ferguson — the singer Fergie to those who didn’t go to Wilson High like her — and adjacent to where some of “Back to the Future” was filmed.

Apparently, it’s the home of meat nirvana.

Yakiya

Where: 17188 Colima Road, Hacienda Heights

When: Three seatings every day at 4:30 p.m., 6:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.

Don’t miss: Bone marrow rice with prime filet mignon

Cost: The beef tasting dinner menu is $128, plus drinks, tax and tip; a kid’s meal is available for $28

Information: 626-581-0080; yakiya-us.com

This has been the job of a lifetime, and it has come to an end. 

Ten years ago, out of the blue, my phone rang. It was an editor at the Orange County Register. We’d never met. I was living in L.A., writing about restaurants and travel.   

“Come talk to us,” she said. “We’re looking for a restaurant critic.” 

“Is this a desk job?” I asked. “Because if it is, I’m not interested.”

The next thing I knew, I was driving around Orange County daily looking for something to eat. And I’ve been doing that almost every day since. 

I made it my mission to help readers of this publication discover new restaurants. Of course I also understood the importance of managing expectations when dining out, so I promised my editors I would never pull any punches. I drove more than 90,000 miles in this pursuit. I hope you found something to eat.

I’ve enjoyed some truly wonderful meals. I was going to come up with a list of favorites, but I couldn’t fathom where to begin. There were so many. Too many. I’ll be forever grateful for having the chance to discover and tell you about the whopping Delmonico steak at The Ranch. And the peerless tom yum with freshwater prawns at Thai Avenue. And the bean and chorizo tacos at Taco María, a restaurant that didn’t even serve tacos when I first reviewed it. And the perfect little slice of shima aji at Hana re. And the delicious nem lui at Little Sister. And the first time I ever tried dizi at Hen House Grill. And the perfect pepperoni pizza at Loosie’s. And the truly special cut-to-order T-bone steaks at Francisco’s Meat Company. And the poblano chile burger at Jugos Acapulco. And the huge plate of hand-cut french fries at Galley Cafe. And the elegant lobster salad at Marche Moderne (and I hope they restart brunch soon). And the spicy langoustines at El Coyotito … I’m barely scratching the surface. I could reminisce for days. 

Putting together my annual 75 Best Places to Eat has been an incredible honor. I hope it has been useful. Likewise: The 50 Best Places to Eat Tacos, the best and worst food at Angel Stadium and my guides to the best ramen, bakeries, donuts, coffee and more, plus far too many restaurant reviews to count. I gained nine pounds. 

I wrote about OC’s meaningless health department ratings. I wrote about the elusiveness of grace, and I wrote about barf sinks. I wrote about corn dogs in good times and delivery during a pandemic. 

I got to write about pozole in Zihuatanejo and street food in San Miguel de Allende. I got to tell you about the most extravagant Chinese food in Las Vegas and the incredible breads and wines of Basilicata.

This is not an easy job to relinquish. I haven’t regretted a minute of it. But I need to move on. I plan to do things I haven’t had time to enjoy in years. I plan to cook at home more. (I just bought a new wok, and my pad kra pow is getting really good.) I plan to become a regular diner at a handful of my favorite restaurants where I can now eat the same damn meal over and over again if I want to.

I’m not retiring, just refocusing my passions. I’ll still be local, but I’ll be traveling more. First up: New York, followed by Bangkok, Luang Prabang, Singapore and Tokyo. If you want to join me on this next adventure, follow along on social media (@bradajohnson on Instagram and Twitter; Johnson.Brad.A on Facebook) where I’ll be sharing updates and postcards along the way. 

Thanks for the memories. 

1. 2145 Eats

The best pizza in OC: spicy salame, ricotta, green olives, pickled Fresno chilies, wood smoke. 2145 Placentia Ave., Costa Mesa, 949-873-5853, 2145eats.com

2. Kuro Artisanal Pizza

Outdoor dining. Minimal service. Extraordinary pizzas. The Lab, 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-714-0909, instagram.com/kuropizza

3. Folks Pizzeria

Beautiful crusts. Fantastic fennel sausage and salsa verde. Can’t go wrong. The Camp, 2937 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-617-4888, folkshospitality.com

4. Loosie’s Pizza 

Game-changer for anyone who loves New York-style pizza. 300 E. 4th St., Santa Ana, 714-760-4444, iloveloosies.com

5. Brick 

Fabulous wood-fire pizzas and incredibly affordable wines. Anything with pork, order it. 216 N. El Camino Real, San Clemente, 949-429-1199, brickrestaurantgroup.com

6. Rance’s 

Legit Chicago stuffed and pan pizzas. Even the wait times are authentic. Nobody does it better. 1420 Baker St., Costa Mesa, 714-708-2143, rancespizza.com

7. Bello

When the diavola pizza arrives, you’ll think you’re in Italy. 1200 Bison Ave., Newport Beach, 949-520-7191, bellobysandronardone.com

8. Pizza X 

Seriously great pepperoni pizza. Lots of beer. Outdoor dining. Brewery X, 3191 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, 657-999-1500, brewery-x.com

9. Pizzeria Mozza

I dare you to say pineapple doesn’t belong on pizza. Just try it. 800 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach, 949-945-1126, newportbeach.pizzeriamozza.com

10. Pietrini

Genuine Neapolitan crusts. Outstanding fennel sausage. 5262 Katella Ave., Los Alamitos, 562-318-3050, pietrinipizza.com

11. TJ’s Woodfire Pizza

The Neapolitan pizzas are great. The cracker-thin Chicago pizza is even better. 641 Camino de los Mares, San Clemente, 949-243-6433, www.tjswoodfirepizza.com

12. Lunita’s 

OC’s best Detroit-style pizza. No onsite dining. Takeout only. Order by text. 31481 Camino Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano, 949-350-4670, instagram.com/lunitas_pizza

13. Pizzeria Sapori 

Always a tough choice between the Margherita and the marinara, but the latter usually wins. 1080 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach, 949-644-4220, saporinb.com

14. Il Dolce

Nduja is a word everyone should learn. And everyone should eat this wood-fired nduja pizza. 1902 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa, 949-200-9107, ildolceoc.com

15. Fuoco

Less is more. Get the marinara. You’ll go home very, very happy. 101 N. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton; 714-626-0727, fuocopizza.com

16. Naples Ristorante e Bar

Wood-fired crusts. A Brinks truck worth of pepperoni. Downtown Disney, 1550 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714-776-6200, patinagroup.com

17. Foretti’s

The name changed. The pizza did not. Still one of the most authentic Margheritas in OC. 2929 East Coast Highway, Corona del Mar; 949-497-8222, forettis.com

18. Filomena’s

Some people say the pepperoni here is too spicy. Those people are dumb. 2400 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, 949-642-3810, filomenasoc.com

19. Terra

A raging wood fire and another very strong argument for pineapple. Oh, shut up. Just trust me. 4884 Main St., Yorba Linda, 714-463-4424, terrawoodfiredkitchen.com

20. Pitfire

Burrata, arugula, pesto and toasted hazelnuts, because sometimes it’s OK to put a salad on a pizza. 353 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa; 949-313-6333, pitfirepizza.com

I look at my watch. It’s 3 p.m. (on a Tuesday), and I’ve just been seated for lunch at Sen, a new Vietnamese cafe in Little Saigon. I had my heart set on the miniature banh mi as an appetizer. So did everyone else, apparently. I don’t want to wait another hour, so I settle for spring rolls instead. And a bowl of pho. Both are excellent.  

Two women sit down at a table next to mine. Without even looking at a menu, they flag down my server. “Yes?” she says, still approaching. 

“Can we please get a couple orders of the banh mi?” they ask. 

“I’m sorry,” the server replies. “We’re sold out of banh mi right now. The next batch won’t be ready for another hour.” It’s a line she has to repeat every time a new customer sits down. 

Sen has been open only a few weeks and already these banh mi are famous.  

I return a few days later, on a weekend, this time arriving before noon. There are 28 people standing in line already. Oof. I put my name on the list and plop down on the curb to wait. Thirty minutes goes by. 

As soon as I’m seated, I immediately ask, “Do you have banh mi?” 

“Yes,” says the server, who this time also appears to be the owner. “How many? I’ll get those started.” 

The banh mi que come two to an order. They are tiny, about the same size as a large cigar. The miniature baguettes — breadsticks, really — are slit down the center and slathered with Hai Phong style pork pate and a generous squirt of housemade chili sauce, then garnished with a ribbon of frizzy pork floss, all of it made in-house, I’m told. The sandwiches are even smaller than I imagined they might be. I grab one and take a bite. In four bites, it’s gone.  

Savory. Salty. Creamy. It’s unlike anything else I’ve tasted in Little Saigon. The smooth pate reminds me of canned deviled ham. My memory of canned deviled ham is a very old but pleasant memory — my grandmother always kept a few cans in her pantry at all times. I can now see why these little snacks are so in-demand throughout the day. 

On this visit, because it’s a weekend, I’ve also ordered the chao, or Vietnamese rice porridge, which isn’t available weekdays. It’s topped with braised pork ribs, crispy garlic and fried dough. I dip my spoon into the porridge expecting to find a creamy rice slurry. Instead, my spoon comes up with a gooey, gelatinous cream that behaves more like pudding. I take a small bite. Then another. I hear a voice. 

“It’s different, isn’t it?” the owner says as he walks past the table, seeing my reaction to the chao. 

It is different. It’s also really, really delicious. I can’t put the spoon down. 

The chao, like the banh mi, is different than anything else I’ve found in my 10 years of exploring Orange County’s Little Saigon. It’s no wonder this place is so packed at all hours of the day. 

The menu is very limited, and I have sampled only a few of the dozen things on offer. But those few things have all been excellent. Not only is this the hottest restaurant in Westminster right now, I’m starting to think it might also already be one of the neighborhood’s best. 

Sen

Where: 15619 Brookhurst St., Westminster

When: Lunch and dinner, Thursdays-Tuesdays (closed Wednesdays)

Phone: 714-759-5959

Online: instagram.com/senvietnamesecuisine

The restaurant is Gema in San Clemente. It’s operated by chef Juan Pablo Cruz, who recently took over the space previously occupied Tamarindo. The charming interior looks exactly the same as it did as Tamarindo. But the food is entirely different. 

Cruz worked briefly at Pujol in Mexico City, according to my server. And while Gema is a far cry from Pujol, this place has the potential of being a very special. The kitchen is currently slower than molasses, so you might want to give it a few weeks before swarming the place. Getting anything from the kitchen right now takes nearly one hour per course, even when the restaurant is almost completely empty. But when the food finally arrives, it’s always beautiful. 

Now back to that chile relleno. The chile is stuffed with Oaxacan quesillo and huitlacoche (a delicious corn fungus) before being coated with crushed hazelnuts and roasted. It’s served in a puddle of tomato puree with serrano chiles and a poached quail egg. It’s not the slightest bit spicy but it is delicious. 

You’ll need something to drink while you wait. And wait. And wait. If whatever you order involves mezcal, you’ll savor every minute. The cocktails here are excellent. 

Gema

Where: 110 South El Camino Real, San Clemente

When: Dinner, Tuesdays-Saturdays

Cost: $17

Phone: 714-640-9371

Online: gemarestaurant.com