Laguna Woods Globe cooking columnist

When I was growing up Italian, Sunday was always a sauce day.

The smell of sauce permeating the house is a memory I will never lose. My mother would give us Italian bread and, while the sauce was cooking, we would spoon some of it over the bread with a little pepper because we couldn’t wait.

Sauce can be full of meat, or it can be a meatless marinara. Keep tasting your sauce while cooking. Does it need more salt or pepper, or maybe a little sugar? Make it the way you would like it to taste. Mangia!

For questions or comments, email cjvigos@yahoo.com.

Spaghetti sauce

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds Italian sausage, hot or mild

1 large onion, diced

8 garlic cloves, chopped

6 Roma tomatoes, chopped

16 ounces mushrooms, sliced

28 ounces crushed tomatoes

5 15-ounce cans tomato sauce

11/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon dried oregano

11/2 teaspoons dried basil

8 ounces red wine

Olive oil

Optional crushed red pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Take sausage out of casings. In a large sauce pan, add 1 tablespoon olive oil, cook sausage until brown and crumble it while cooking. Take out of the pot and drain the fat.

To the pan add 2 more tablespoons of olive oil and sauté the onions, tomatoes and mushrooms with an optional dash of red pepper until soft. Add the garlic and cook for another minute.

Return the sausage to the pot and the rest of the ingredients and simmer on low partially covered 2 to 3 hours until thick and flavorful.

Adjust seasonings, if needed, by adding 1 to 2 teaspoons of sugar. It depends on the tomatoes.

The sauce can be used with any kind of pasta or ravioli. I always like to freeze a batch to have on hand.

Many recipes cook it in way too much liquid, waterlogging it into a bland, somewhat limp concoction. I like to toast it in a dry saucepan before cooking it, pilaf-style, a process that creates an appealing nutty taste and a delicate crunch.

Toasted Quinoa with Feta and Herbs

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 cups white quinoa; see cook’s notes

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 large brown onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 3/4 cups water

3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as basil, parsley, mint or chives (I like a combination of at least two)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese

Cook’s notes: I haven’t encountered unwashed quinoa in many years. Older recipes say to rinse and drain quinoa before cooking to remove bitterness. But as it has grown in popularity, packaged store-bought quinoa has been pre-rinsed.

DIRECTIONS

1. Add quinoa to a large saucepan and place on medium-high heat. Toast quinoa, stirring frequently, until nicely brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Note that not all will be browned, some will remain white, but don’t worry about it. Empty it into a bowl. Allow the pan to cool for a couple of minutes.

2. Return pan to medium heat and melt butter. Add onion and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and starts to brown. Add water and quinoa; increase to high heat. Bring to simmer. Cover and reduce heat to low; gently simmer until tender and liquid is absorbed, about 18 minutes. Set aside off heat, still covered, for 8 minutes. Add herbs, juice, salt and pepper. Toss and cover for 2 more minutes off heat. Add feta and toss. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.

These flavor-packed burgers are a spin on a spiced pork sausage from Goa in southern India, based on the garlicky, European-style chouriço introduced by Portuguese settlers. To combat the humidity of the region and prolong the shelf life of the sausage, the meat is heavily salted and flavored with a mixture of spices and tangy vinegar.

Goan sausage is ubiquitous in southern India, where you can find it sold at street food carts and high-end restaurants alike, sometimes baked into a bun or minced and stuffed between layers of fried naan.

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we take inspiration from those burger-like sandwiches, using a combination of grated garlic, garam masala, cumin, paprika and cayenne to give the all-pork patties deep, complex flavor and a rusty hue. Grating the garlic ensures it melts into the meat without any distracting bits. Instead of naan, we use classic hamburger buns.

Egg and panko bread crumbs help the patties keep their shape. Don’t undermix the pork mixture; be sure to combine it well so the breadcrumbs and seasonings are evenly distributed.

These burgers are especially delicious topped with yogurt, torn fresh mint leaves and thin slices of cucumber or tomato.

Indian-Spiced Pork Burgers

Start to finish: 35 minutes

Servings: 4

Ingredients:

⅔ cup panko breadcrumbs

¼ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, plus more to serve

5 teaspoons garam masala

5 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 tablespoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 large egg yolks

2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 pound ground pork

2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil

4 hamburger buns, toasted

Directions:

1. In a large bowl, combine the panko, yogurt, garam masala, paprika, cumin, cayenne, egg yolks, garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper and ¼ cup water. Using a fork, mash the mixture into a smooth paste. Add the pork and mix with your hands until evenly combined. Form into 4 patties, each about 4 inches in diameter, place on a large plate and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
2. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium, heat the oil until barely smoking. Add the burgers and cook until well browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Flip, reduce to medium-low and continue to cook until the patties are well browned on the second sides and the centers reach 160°F, another 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a clean plate, tent with foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve on the buns with additional yogurt on the side.

EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap

Roasting, broiling or baking on a rimmed baking sheet produces irresistible textures that work hand in hand with more flavor. Meats are juicy and tender; vegetables are caramelized and subtly sweetened. It’s an easy, hands-off method.

The pan is important. I own four of them. They “live” in the lower of my two ovens and are used almost daily for some culinary chore. Often known as “half sheets” or “rimmed baking sheets,” sheet pans are sturdy rectangular pans with a 1-inch lip on the four sides. Those shallow sides let hot air from the oven circulate and crisp the ingredients’ exteriors. Although restaurant-sized they can be ginormous, home-use size is usually 13-by-18-inches.

I’ve chosen recipes for three one-dish sheet pan dinners that I enjoy. They are dishes that get rave reviews from kids and adults alike.

Sheet Pan Fajita Flank Steak with Peppers and Onions

This Fajita Flank Steak with Peppers and Onions is scrumptious served as a filling in warm tortillas with optional garnishes, such as sliced avocado and Cotija cheese. Before it makes its way atop a sheet pan, the meat is marinated for several hours in a garlicy, lime-scented mixture. Some of that tasty marinade is reserved and not used for marination; it’s used to blanket the colorful sliced bell peppers and onions before they are roasted. An instant-read thermometer is a handy tool to have on hand; you will want to boil the steak just long enough to reach 125 degrees for rare, or 135 degrees for medium-rare.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

2 1/2 pounds flank steak

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 to 4 limes)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Olive oil cooking spray

4 bell peppers (any color), stemmed, seeded, thinly slices

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

For serving: 8 to 12 small (6-inch) tortillas (flour or corn)

Garnishes: 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves, sour cream, salsa, sliced avocado and crumbled (or grated) Cotija cheese or queso fresco

DIRECTIONS

1. Place flank steak in a large zipper-style bag or shallow glass baking dish. In a small bowl, whisk together garlic, olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, lime juice, cumin, chili powder, sugar, pepper flakes and salt. Reserve 1/4 cup of marinade for the vegetables and pour the rest over steak. Seal bag or cover dish and refrigerate for 2 to 12 hours.

2. When you are ready to cook, preheat oven to 450 degrees with one rack about 4 inches from the broiler, another rack in the center position and another in the bottom position. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil and mist it with cooking spray.

3. Toss peppers and onion with reserved 1/4 cup marinade in a large bowl and spread them evenly on prepared pan. Roast on center rack until softened and starting to brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and set the oven to broil.

4. Wrap a stack of tortillas in aluminum foil and set it aside.

5. Push peppers and onion to perimeter of the pan. Remove steak from marinade, allow any excess liquid to drip off the meat and place it in center of pan surrounded with vegetables (discard marinade). Place pan on top rack and broil the steak, flipping it once, until it begins to char on the outside and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 125 degrees for rare or 135 degrees for medium rare, about 3 to 5 minutes per side.

6. While the steak cooks, place the foil-wrapped tortillas on the bottom rack to warm through. Once the steak finishes cooking, remove pan from oven and turn oven off. Leave tortillas in oven to continue warming while the steak rests.

7. Allow steak to rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 minutes before slicing it thinly against the grain. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve the steak warm with peppers, onions and warm tortillas. Pass the salsa, sour cream, avocado and cheese at the table.

Source: “Sheet Pan Suppers” by Molly Gilbert (Workman, $15.95)

Sheet Pan Sumac-Dusted Salmon with Broccolini

The flavor bonus that ground sumac brings to salmon is a delight. Sumac is a spice that adds a tangy citrusy flavor, along with a fruity aroma. In addition to using it atop fish, it is also delicious with chicken, avocados, and salads. They stock it at my local supermarket (Morton and Bassett brand) but it is also sold online.

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon ground sumac, plus more for serving

2 teaspoons minced garlic (from 1 to 2 cloves)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

12 ounces broccolini, trimmed

3 clementines, mandarin oranges, or tangerines, peel on, quartered

4 skin-on salmon fillets (each 1-inch thick)

3 ounces feta, crumbled (3/4 cup)

1 cup mixed tender herbs, such as cilantro, mint, and parsley

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat broiler with rack 6 inches from broiler element. In a small bowl, stir together oil, sumac, garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss broccolini and oranges with 3 tablespoons sumac mixture. Season with salt and pepper; spread into a single layer.

2. Broil, turning once, until it begins to brown in places, 4 to 5 minutes. Season fish with salt and pepper; brush with remaining sumac mixture.

3. Push broccolini and oranges to one side of the sheet pan; add fish to other side, skin-sides down. Broil until salmon is cooked through, 5 minutes more. If salmon needs additional cooking, remove the other ingredients from the sheet pan. Turn the broiler off and set the oven to 350 degrees and return salmon to the oven on a middle rack to bake an additional 4 or 5 minutes.

4. Squeeze some clementine or tangerine or mandarin juice over everything. Serve topped with feta and herbs. Pass sumac for optional seasoning.

Turkey Sausage with Acorn Squash and Red Onions

Turkey Sausage with Acorn Squash and Red Onion weighs in with a lovely balance of tantalizing flavors. Sweet turkey Italian sausages roast with skin-on slices of acorn squash and thin wedges of red onion. The squash and onions get a welcome amount of sweet caramelization, contrasting nicely with the juicy snap of the sausages. A thin coating of cheese (either grated Parmesan or for a sharper contrast, Asiago) melts atop it all during the last three minutes of broiling. Out of the oven, chopped dried cherries or cranberries add an additional bit of flavor harmony.

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 medium-large acorn squash, halved, seeded, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices

1 medium-large red onion, halved top to bottom, cut into 1/2-inch crosswise slices or wedges

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste

5 sweet turkey Italian sausages, 15 to 16 ounces

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese or Asiago cheese

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves

1/4 cup dried cranberries or cherries, coarsely chopped

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Arrange a second rack about 8 inches from the broiler element. Preheat oven to 475 degrees.

2. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss squash and onion with oil. Spread out into single layer (most important for squash to be flat on the pan, not so much for the onions). Season with salt and pepper. Add sausages. Place on center rack in preheated oven. Roast about 17 to 19 minutes, or until squash is tender.

3. Remove from oven. Adjust oven rack to 8-inches below broiler element if you didn’t do so in Step #1. Turn on broiler. Sprinkle cheese and sage over vegetables and place pan on rack under broiler. Broil until cheese is melted and bubbling, 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle cranberries or cherries on top.

This robustly seasoned, almost meaty tomato salad was inspired by Mexican salsa macha, a savory-spicy condiment made with dried chilies, garlic, nuts and seeds that are fried in oil, then pureed.

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we skip the blender and deconstruct the salsa, adding the ingredients directly to the salad — the fried peanuts and sesame seeds add texture that contrasts beautifully against meaty tomatoes.

For an especially colorful salad, use heirloom tomatoes of different hues. You also can combine tomato varieties and sizes for more varied texture and appearance. Salting the tomatoes and letting them stand deepens their flavor and softens them slightly for extra succulence and juiciness. Halve any smaller tomatoes, like grape or cherry, so the salt can season the flesh.

When toasting the peanuts and sesame seeds, be sure to use a neutral oil such as grapeseed. Extra-virgin olive oil will lose its flavor when heated to the temperature needed to fry the peanuts. And when salting the tomatoes, kosher salt is best. The large granules distribute more evenly and won’t clump the way table salt can when tossed with moist ingredients.

Tomato Salad with Peanuts, Cilantro and Chipotle-Sesame Dressing

Start to finish: 35 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons neutral oil

¼ cup roasted peanuts

2 tablespoons sesame seeds OR 1 medium garlic clove, thinly sliced OR both

1 chipotle chili in adobo sauce, minced, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into ½-inch wedges (see headnote)

1½ cups lightly packed fresh cilantro OR basil OR flat-leaf parsley OR a combination, torn if large

Directions:

1. In a small saucepan over medium, combine the oil and peanuts. Cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the peanuts to a paper towel-lined plate.
2. To the same saucepan over medium, add the sesame seeds. Cook, stirring, until lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, then stir in the chipotle and adobo sauce, vinegar and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, in a serving bowl, toss the tomatoes with ½ teaspoon salt; let stand for about 10 minutes. Chop the peanuts.
3. Spoon the chipotle-sesame mixture over the tomatoes. Add the cilantro and peanuts, then stir gently. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
4. Optional garnish: Flaky salt or crumbled cotija cheese or both.

EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap

The wedge salad recipe in Cook’s Illustrated magazine offers a dandy take on the onion element. Instead of sliced red onion, it suggests thinly sliced pickled shallots, a sweet-sour element that is quick to prepare and scrumptious. Their formula also includes a last-minute scattering of snipped fresh chives.

I’ve noticed that guests appreciate a place setting that includes steak knives. The sharp blades make cutting Iceberg lettuce much easier.

Wedge Salad

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Pickled Shallots:

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 shallots, thinly sliced

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Dressing:

2 ounces blue cheese (1/2 cup), crumbled

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon hot sauce

Salad:

6 slices thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-wide pieces

1 head Iceberg lettuce (1 1/4 pounds), stem trimmed, chilled, see cook’s notes

1 plum tomato, cored and cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 12 cherry tomatoes cut in half

4 ounces (1 cup) blue cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons fresh chives, cut into 1/2-inch lengths

Cook’s notes: The lettuce’s core should stay intact to hold the leaves together in a tight stack.

DIRECTIONS

1. Prepare pickled shallots: Combine vinegar and sugar in a small microwave-safe bowl or glass measuring cup with a handle. Microwave until sugar is dissolved and vinegar is steaming, 30 to 60 seconds. Add shallots and stir to combine. Cover and cool completely for about 30 minutes. They can be refrigerated airtight for up to one week. Drain before using the shallots on the salad.

2. Prepare the dressing: While the shallots are pickling, mash the blue cheese in a medium bowl with a fork. Add the mayonnaise, sour cream, juice, vinegar, and hot sauce; stir to combine. Season with freshly ground black pepper.

3. Prepare the bacon: Cook bacon in a 10-inch skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and bacon is a deep, golden brown, adjusting heat to keep bacon from browning too quickly. Transfer bacon to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

4. Halve lettuce through core and cut each half into 2 wedges, leaving core intact. Arrange lettuce wedges, rounded side down, on rimmed plates or shallow bowls. Drizzle about 3 tablespoons dressing across the top of each wedge, using a spoon to help it cascade down the sides. Divide tomato(es), 1 cup crumbled blue cheese, and bacon among wedges. Garnish with drained pickled shallots and chives. Season generously with freshly ground black pepper. Pass remaining dressing separately.

Source: Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated magazine

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.

Some might argue, offering up different sets of two ingredients that work together harmoniously. My father always sang the praises of strawberries and cream; my mother would weigh in with apples and cinnamon. For me, my palate wavers, but my favorite ingredient combinations often showcase some kind of cheese.

Now in high school, Jacob and I have made hundreds of Peanut Blossom Cookies, tasty peanut butter cookies, each adorned with a Hershey’s chocolate kiss. The recipe has been around for decades and it’s foolproof, a great treat to bake with kids.

The recipe is included here, along with a brownie that shows off peanut butter as well as chocolate. Also included is a formula for Peanut Brittle Bars, a bar cookie that uses chocolate and salted, roasted peanuts, deviating a smidgen from the peanut butter theme. But I couldn’t leave them out. To my palate, they are the best bar cookies imaginable. The pairing is a jewel.

Peanut Brittle Bars

My hankering for salty-sweet treats started with my Aunt Lillian’s peanut brittle. Throughout my childhood, every year her nut-laden candy arrived a few days before Christmas. Tightly packed in a pristine coffee can, Lillian’s crunchy confections disappeared far too quickly. Well into adulthood I discovered Peanut Brittle Bars. The crisp squares showcased a topping of salted peanuts, along with chocolate chips and caramel.

Yield: 48 bars

INGREDIENTS

Base:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1 tablespoon toasted wheat germ

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) cold butter, cut into 1/4-inch slices

Topping:

2 cups salted, roasted peanuts

1 cup milk chocolate chips

1 (12 1/2 ounces) jar caramel ice cream topping

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-by-15-by-1-inch rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, place flours, wheat germ, brown sugar, baking soda and salt; pulse to combine, about 10 seconds. Add cold butter slices; pulse until crumbly and butter is cut into dry ingredients. Do not over process, or mixture will form a dough. Dump onto prepared baking sheet. Use clean fingers to evenly press into even layer. Bake in preheated oven for 10 to 14 minutes or until evenly golden.

3. Sprinkle peanuts and chocolate chips over warm base. In a small bowl, stir together the caramel sauce and 3 tablespoons of flour; drizzle over peanuts and chips.

4. Bake in 350-degree oven for 12 to 18 minutes or until golden brown and set. Cool 1 hour or until completely cooled. Cut into bars.

Milk Chocolate and Peanut Butter Brownies

My favorite way to serve peanut butter spiked brownies is alongside vanilla ice cream that is sprinkled with peanuts.

Yield: One 9-by-13-inch pan of brownies, about 12 servings

INGREDIENTS

Soft butter for greasing pan and parchment paper

8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons smooth peanut butter

1 cup coarsely chopped milk chocolate

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

4 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 2/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips, see cook’s notes

Cook’s notes: I use semi-sweet chocolate chips because they are preferred by my grandchildren, but cookbook author Nicole Rucker calls for 72% chocolate chips, a darker chocolate with a higher cacao content. The choice is yours.

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch rimmed sheet pan and line the bottom and sides with parchment paper. Set aside.

2. Place 2 sticks of butter in a small saucepan on medium heat. Stir frequently and keep an eye on it so it doesn’t brown. Meanwhile, put peanut butter and chopped chocolate in large heatproof bowl. When the butter is hot and melted, pour over peanut butter-chocolate mixture and stir to combine and melt chocolate. Set aside.

3. In the large mixing bowl of an electric stand mixer, combine brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, eggs, and vanilla. Mix on medium speed for 1 minute, until the mixture is pale in color and creamy looking. Add the melted chocolate-butter mixture. Mix at a medium speed until combined. Add the flour and cocoa powder; mix until just combined, so no dry bits of flour remain.

4. Transfer batter to prepared pan. Using a silicone spatula smooth out batter pushing batter into the corners and making it even. Tap lightly on the counter to remove any air pockets. Scatter chocolate chips on top of batter, gently pressing them down a little.

5. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate pan and bake another 13 to 15 minutes, or until the sides are set and the center will still appear a bit unset. A toothpick inserted in center should come out with very moist crumbs.

6. Allow brownies to cool on a wire rack. They can be stored airtight at room temperature up to one week.

Source: Adapted from “Fat + Flour” by Nicole Rucker (Alfred A. Knoff)

Peanut Blossom Cookies

A milk chocolate kiss pressed into the center of these still-hot peanut butter cookies makes them pretty and delicious, too. When I want to make these cookies with my grandchildren and I discover there aren’t any Hershey’s chocolate kisses in the house, I substitute either Hershey’s nuggets or Mini Milk Chocolate peanut butter cups from Trader Joe’s.

Yield: About 3 to 4 dozen cookies

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature

1/2 generous cup peanut butter, creamy preferred

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup dark brown sugar

1 egg

2 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

Parchment paper

Granulated sugar for rolling

9 ounces Hershey’s kisses, unwrapped

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer, place butter and peanut butter. Beat at a medium speed until well combined. Add sugars and beat until creamy. Add egg, milk, and vanilla; beat until well combined.

2. In a separate bowl, combine flour, baking soda, and salt; stir with a whisk. Add the flour mixture in 3 portions to the butter mixture, beating between additions to combine.

3. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Shape dough into 1-inch balls (I do this with the aid of a small ice cream scoop). Roll the dough balls in granulated sugar to coat. Place on prepared baking sheets, about 1 1/2-inches apart. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven and immediately place an unwrapped chocolate kiss in the middle of each cookie, lightly pressing it down. The cookies may crack around the edges. Don’t worry.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.

The Associated Press

We aren’t in the thick of summer yet, not by a long shot, but hopefully you’ve already managed to fire up the grill at least once or twice. As the days get longer, the weather commands us to find a way to cook and dine outdoors.

A juicy steak is — for many — the pinnacle of grilling options. In your mind, you can already see them. Caramelized and sizzling on the outside, pink and tender on the inside, with those beautiful crosshatch marks that let you know exactly how your steak was prepared. Here’s how to get to that perfect beefy nirvana.

This method works for all cuts of tender beef steak, such as ribeye, porterhouse, ranch, T-bone, filet mignon, flat iron steak, NY strip steak and so on.

Buy the best grade of beef you can afford. USDA Prime is the top of the range, with USDA Choice coming after that. Next is Select, which will be leaner still. If possible, speak with a butcher about getting the best cut of meat for your needs and your budget.

How to get perfect grill marks

First, make sure your steaks are thick enough. If they’re on the thinner side, 1¼ inch or less, you will probably want to flip your steaks only once, so they don’t overcook on the inside while the outside becomes that deliciously appealing caramelized brown. In this case, you’ll get grill marks that go one way.

If your steaks are thicker, then go for crosshatch grill marks.

Place the steaks on the grill on the diagonal, at about a 45-degree angle across the direction of the grates. Grill for a few minutes. Rotate the steaks a quarter turn (90 degrees). You are looking to create a diamond pattern with grill marks.

Flip the steaks and grill them the same way.

Let your steaks sit on the cutting board for 5 minutes after removing them from the grill before you cut them. This will finish the cooking (it’s called carryover cooking). The resting period also lets the meat reabsorb its juices, so they stay in your steak where they belong and don’t run out onto your cutting board.

No matter what kind of steaks you choose, no matter what the thickness, make sure you have cleaned the grill well. A clean grill will offer cleaner grill marks. Also, oil the grill.

How to know whether the steak is rare, medium rare or medium

In general (and it depends on the cut of beef and the heat of the grill), a 1½-inch-thick steak will cook to medium rare in 12 to 16 minutes. A 1-inch steak will cook to medium rare in a total of 8 to 12 minutes.

An instant-read meat thermometer is the best way to check doneness. For medium rare, 130 degrees F is the approximate internal temperature.

You can also use the touch test, if you don’t have a meat thermometer. A general rule of thumb, so to speak:

For rare

Let one hand hang limp. With the index finger of the other hand, push gently into the soft triangle of flesh between the thumb and index finger of the hanging hand. It will offer very little resistance, give way easily, and feel soft and spongy. That’s the feel of a rare steak.

For medium-rare

Extend your hand in front of you and spread your fingers. Press the same spot with the index finger of the other hand. The flesh will be firmer but not hard — springy and slightly resistant. This is the feel of medium-rare steak.

For medium

Make a fist and press that same spot between thumb and index finger. It will feel firm and snap back quickly, offering only a minimum of give, as does meat cooked to medium.

A recipe for compound butter to go with your steak

A wonderful way to finish your grilled steak is to top it with a pat of compound butter, which is simply softened butter mixed with some herbs and/or seasonings. As the meat rests, place a bit of the butter atop it and let the butter melt as the meat rests.

Garlic Parmesan Compound Butter

2 tablespoons unsalted butter (softened)

1 tablespoon finely grated Parmesan

1 small garlic clove (minced)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (to taste)

In a small bowl, combine the butter, Parmesan, minced garlic, salt and pepper until well blended. Place a couple tablespoons of butter on top of a steak as it rests after being removed from the fire.

___

Katie Workman writes regularly about food for The Associated Press. She has written two cookbooks focused on family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” She blogs at https://themom100.com/. She can be reached at Katie@themom100.com.

___

For more AP food stories, go to https://apnews.com/hub/recipes.

Enjoyment starts with selecting fresh, appealing corn. I look for husks (outer covering) that are bright green and fit snugly around each ear of corn. I then peel back the husk slightly to see if the kernels are arranged in tight rows right up to the tip of the corn. If they aren’t, I set that ear of corn aside and search for another. I also check for rot. If the kernels at the top are brown, I avoid buying that ear of corn.

Here’s how to prepare corn for grilling (and where BBQ purists and I part ways). The purist will argue that you should peel back the husk and remove all the corn silk. Then, fully immerse and soak the corn (with husks) in cold water. After soaking, remove the corn from the water.

I find it hard to get all the corn silk off the ear of corn without disturbing the husk. So, I make it easier. After soaking the corn in water, I peel off the husk. Then, I gently scrub all the corn silk off the ear before it goes on the grill. Since the corn has absorbed moisture during its water bath, it stays moist enough once it comes off the grill, and it has beautiful grill marks.

Once the corn is grilled and ready to eat, what do you serve with it? I enjoy grilled corn just fine without any seasoning except a bit of salt. More often than not, however, I slather the hot corn with a butter-based spread. I recommend the chili butter spread included below. There’s something about the combination of chili and cumin in this spread, especially when prepared with a touch of honey, that is incredibly tasty on grilled corn. Please try this chili-cumin butter at least once, and if you have a chance, let me know how you like it!

Grilled Corn with Chili-Cumin Butter

Yield: Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

8 tablespoons unsalted butter (room temperature — divided use)

1 tablespoon chile powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½  teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon honey

6  ears of corn

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat the grill to medium heat (about 350 degrees).

2. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the chili powder and cumin, and stir for 10 seconds. Remove from heat and transfer to a medium bowl. Incorporate the oregano, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, honey, and remaining butter into the bowl. Whip until smooth and then transfer to a small serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

3. Prepare corn for grilling by soaking it in cold water for 20 minutes. Remove the corn and shake off excess water, then remove all husks and corn silk.

4. Grill the corn until it’s charred in spots, turning it three or four times over a total of about 15 minutes. If you have a grill cover, lower it between each turn. Transfer the corn to a large platter and serve with chili-cumin butter on the side.

Randy Graham is a private chef and author whose cookbooks include “The Ojai Valley Cookbook,” “The Ojai Valley Vegetarian” and the “The Ojai Valley Vegan.” He has been a vegetarian since 1975 and enjoys cooking for friends and family using ingredients from backyard vegetable and herb gardens.

This Green Black Tapenade can be prepared up to a week in advance and stored, airtight, in the refrigerator. One delicious way to show it off is to use it in a tomato salad. Toss 1 1/2 pounds tomatoes (cut into wedges if medium or large, halved if cherry tomato sized) with 1/2 cup Green Black Tapenade, 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves (cut into thin strips), and 3 cups baby greens. Taste the dish and add salt if necessary.  Drizzle with some extra-virgin olive oil.

Green Black Tapenade

Yield: 1 1/2 cups

INGREDIENTS

3 medium cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons drained capers

4 anchovy fillets

Leaves from sprig of fresh thyme

1 cup pitted black olives, kalamata preferred

1 1/4 cups pitted mild green olives, such as Castelvetrano

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS

1. With the food processor running, drop garlic into feedtube to mince it. Add capers, anchovies and fresh thyme leaves; process until minced, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.

2. Add olives and olive oil; pulse until olives are finely chopped but not pureed.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.